Today’s winter hood combines the construction of a wadded hood in the crown and a lappet style in the brim. This piece is slightly smaller, either for a youth or a smaller head.
The whole of the exterior is constructed of a dark green silk taffeta with a hue of blue. Six wadded channels create the crown that wraps the head softly as a wadded hood would. Added to the front is a lappet brim. This portion is quilted on the diagonal. The edge of the lappet brim is edged with a black velvet. This trim continues around the edge of the bavolet as well.
This hood is a bit of a problem child. Why? Because it has an odor that limits the time I can spend with it. I had planned to examine the silk under magnification to answer questions I have about how the color of the crown and brim appear. I find I must delay that. This piece arrived with an odor that was evident as I opened it. It has spent well over a month in the freezer, possibly two as I’ve lost track of time. With in moments of unwrapping it for photos, the odor was still strongly present. I was thankful my little photo studio is set up in the second bathroom, as it has a fan. This hood is bound for a stay in an activated charcoal box, as soon as I have the right plastic box in hand. Even after an extended stay, I don’t know if this piece will join the same boxes as my pieces. Note: I do not blame the seller for the odor. It has been with this piece for some time I suspect. If I recall correctly it was found at an estate sale.
Side views of the hood with the lappet brim turned back. I theor6this is how the hood was worn as there is some wear to the upper area where it would have been folded.
The wadded portion of the hood creates the crown and sides of the hood. This portion appears to be cut on the grain (without looking closely.) There are 6 softly wadded channels and a tightly gathered central back. The channels are drawn in by narrow, stiff cord on the inside. This portion is slightly smaller than most adult hoods. This was noticable when I tried to put it on one of my heads.
The edge of the brim and bavolet are edged with black velvet. This is a low pile velvet that seems to absorb light rather than reflect it. This velvet emphasizes a curve, almost point, in the top of the lappet edge. When layed out flat, this curve reaches forward. When folded back, the curve creates a pretty line atop the face. The brim appears to be set on the bias.
Left: The hood flat with the brim unfolded. A slight difference in color between the crown and brim can be seen. This is what I want a closer look at under magnification. Some of this color difference is discoloration (see below), some the on grain verses bias cut. Right: The brim folded forward. Here the curve of the brim can be seen.
One tie remains with a small fragment on the other side. This ribbon is a plain weave center with a narrow diamond edge worked in black and silvery white. The ribbons were attached by simple folding in and tacking in place.
The interior is a single brown polished cotton with minimal sign of wear. The neck edge is bound in a strip of the same. This is some of the discoloration on the lappet brim. If the brim was worn folded back, this area would be inside the fold. If worn flat, this would be the exterior of the hood.
If I Had My Own Blue Box: 
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