Winter Millinery Series (7)

I have decided to share select pieces from my winter hood/bonnet collection. Every few days, I will post a new piece. My collection currently spans most of the 19th century, though lightly at the very beginning and end. The pieces I share will be from the early and mid-Victorian eras, roughly 1830s through the 1870s. All but one of my pieces originate from the United States.

Today’s winter hood is of the same style as my second winter millinery pattern. It has a deep brim and elongated cheektabs/lapets. This hood is constructed with a basic three piece construction – brim, crown, and bavolet. This hood has a black silk taffeta exterior. Black silk lines the interior of the brim while brown polished cotton lines the crown. The bavolet is unlined.

The brim is pieced together to get the large piece. The piecing is finely done making it difficult to spot. The easiest one to see is a horizontal piecing on the left hand side about half way up. This piecing can be seen nicely in this photo that also shows how the bavolet is attached:

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Notice how the bavolet is completely unlined. This is rather uncommon for winter hoods. I have seen some where there is an exterior and interior fabric with no batting or wadding. Completely unlined is unpractical in terms of warmth and moisture protection. This bavolet is simply gathered into the neck edge. There is a hem at the bottom which is tacked on each side to the cheektabs/lapets. You can see how the binding for the neck edge continues down along the inner edge of the cheektab to the point where the bavolet is attached.

This interior photo shows the same area. The neck binding adds strength, neatness, and comfort to this seam area. One thing of interest is the remains of a ribbon (just left and above center) along the neck edge. There are corresponding threads in the same spot on the other side. This shows functional ties were at one point place rather far back on the head. I find this placement can be helpful if in a windy climate.

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There is evidence of what may have been ribbons on the inside of the cheektabs/lapets. These holes are either pin holes or thread holes.

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Alright, I kinda fizzled with this writing…

I do want you to see the inside of the crown. This shows both the layers as seen in the seam area and how it is set with denser gathers towards the top.

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Two damage spots let us see inside to the lining:

Similar style hoods:

(Left to right: Pink silk with longer lapets in the Greene Collection at GCVM. Green silk exterior with pink silk interior in Anna’s collection. Green wool exterior with pink silk interior in Anna’s collection.)

Note 1 – Additional Winter Millinery can be found in posts from September though November, 2019 using the search term: Winter Millinery Series or clicking here.

Winter Millinery Survey Please

Published in: on November 6, 2019 at 1:00 am  Leave a Comment  

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