May | 2014 | If I Had My Own Blue Box:

A Year in Millinery Fashion 1864

It is said that, as regards to invention, one milliner does more in a month than the world architects in a score of years. We are forcibly reminded of this while walking, lately, through the show rooms of Mme. N. Tilman, of 143 East Ninth Street, New York. At this establishment we are constantly surprised with novelties; nothing pretty or new appears in Europe in the millinery line, but is to beyond at the Maison Tilman.

An entire novelty consists of straw guipure, equal in appearance to the finest lace. Straw ribbons are also something quite new, and just introduced on the new spring bonnets. Mother of pearl, of which we have already spoken as being worn on coiffures and ball dresses, is now adopted for bonnets, and, in contrast with trimmings of rich velvet, produces an admirable effect. We are able now to speak with certainty of the spring style bonnets, as announced by the most distinguished artistes.

Scotch plaid, in silk and velvet, is very much in vogue; but we notice that Mme. Tilman uses is sparingly, and only in the finest and choicest patterns and combinations. The following will serve as examples. –

A rich wrought Neapolitan, the braids an inch apart, and each displaying a fine cord-like edge of blue, green, and crimson plaid. The curtain was composed of a shell of plaid silk upon blonde, also in a shell pattern. A puff of ribbon and meadow grass, tipped with dew, constituted the decoration, which was placed high on one side of the brim.

Trimming of all kinds is used very moderately, but it must be of the very best, whether in flowers, lace, or ribbon. It is no longer masses on the top of the brim, but is arranged on the top or side of the crown, or across the side of the brim from its tip to the crown. The shape is perfect, neither too large nor too small, but serving as a modest frame for a fair face. It is still rather high in the front, very much compressed at the sides, and slopes low behind to the base of the crown, which is wider than formerly, in order to allow for the present style of coiffure.

A charming novelty imported by Mme. Tilman consists of fine white and black Neapolitans embroidered in flowers and trailing branches in a fine jet. The design is so delicate and graceful, the workmanship so exquisite, that there is nothing of the ordinary appearance which is frequently objected to in embroidered bonnets. On the contrary, in black upon white, and black upon black, we have rarely seen anything so elegantly effective. Very little trimming, in addition to the cape of velvet or lace, and the decorations of the interior, is required for these bonnets.

Fringes of crystal and jet now replace the feather fringes, and are arranged to fall over the front of the bonnet and shade the interior. (Godey’s, May 1864)

Published in:

Favorite Topics - Millinery/Bonnets/Ribbons

on May 26, 2014 at 1:01 am Leave a Comment
Tags: A Year in Millinery Fashion 1864

Violets in Early Spring

This bonnet is one I have slowly been working on for a while. It really does remind me of those tiny violets that peek up in the early spring. Sometimes they are a speckle of color in the grass; sometimes a speckle in the lingering spring snow. (Btw – I’m amazed by the abundance of white violets in our yard. So, I was glad I had white violets to mimic that too.)

This bonnet is a white and ivory organza silk organza woven in a windowpane check design, drawn on cane over light weight buckram. The brim also has some fluffy flounces.

The lilac purple silk ribbon comes from Italy. It is a beautiful ribbon both in looks and feel. The edge is particularly lovely. (I need a photo of that edge.)

You can find this bonnet on Etsy this morning with sideways photos. (Phone issues.)

I have a few other millinery pieces I am anxious to share with all of you. As soon as their new owners have them in hand, I can share.

Published in:

Favorite Topics - Millinery/Bonnets/Ribbons

on May 25, 2014 at 9:57 am Comments (1)
Tags: Anna's Millinery

Mrs. Bright’s and Mrs. Blank’s Journals – July

I stumbled across something I found to be a fun read in the 1866 American Agriculturalist. The Ladies Column included a full year through the eyes of two women. I’ll share each month for the next two weeks (ish) side-by-side. (The excerpts are a bit challenging to read.)

Published in:

Resources - Primary & Transcriptions

on May 25, 2014 at 6:10 am Leave a Comment
Tags: Mrs. Bright’s and Mrs. Blank’s Journals

Mrs. Bright’s and Mrs. Blank’s Journals – June

Published in:

Resources - Primary & Transcriptions

on May 24, 2014 at 6:09 am Leave a Comment
Tags: Mrs. Bright’s and Mrs. Blank’s Journals

Why Green?

This week I had the pleasure, rather joy, of truly seeing why green was used as often as it was with straw. I was applying this vintage satin back velvet ribbon in an olivey-green shade to a straw hat that is being mailed today. (I’ll share those photos once the recipient receives it.) As I stitched, I was caught by how the green brought out the golden richness of the straw. The hat was pretty before. But, the green ribbon made it almost glow.

After seeing numerous green ribbons on straw bonnets over the years, I finally saw what they saw. I saw how the green worked with the natural straw. It just works and work really well.

What does the original cast say of green for millinery?

For fair-haired women “A green bonnet is advantageous to fair or rosy complexions. It may be trimmed with white flowers, but preferably with rose. A rose-colored bonnet must not be too close to the skin; and if it is found that the hair does not produce sufficient separation, the distance from the rose-color may be increased by means of white, or green, which is preferable. A wreath of white flowers in the midst of their leaves, has a good effect.” (“Color and Ornament”, Home Circle. Nashville, Tenn, 1856)

The main relations of color to be borne in mind are these: Green is the opposite, and the complement, to red; green, therefore, reddens adjacent hues, and red adds a green tinge to them; but green and red set off each other to the best advantage when placed side by side – the green looking greener, the red redder – and this is, of course, most thoroughly the effect when the two colors are alike in depth of tone. What green is to red, yellow is to violet, and blue to orange. In the same way it may be said that the yellow tints of green suggest their compliments and opposites, the violet-reds; the yellow-oranges contrast with violet-blues, and the orange-reds with blue-greens.

Thus the pink of the complexion is brought out by a green setting in dress or bonnet; and any lady who has a fair complexion, that admits of having its rose tint a little heightened, may make effective use of the green color, but it should be a delicate green, since it is of importance to preserve harmony of tone. When there is in the face a tint of orange mixed with brown, a brick-red hue will result from the use of green; if any green at all used in such a case it should be dark. (“Something for the Ladies About Color“, Harper’s New Monthly Magazine, November, 1854)

A green bonnet is advantageous to fair or rosey complexions. It may be trimmed with white flowers, but preferably with rose….. A green bonnet is suitable to fair and light rosey complexions; rose, red, or white flowers are preferable to all others. (“How to Choose Colors in Dress“, Peterson’s Magazine, 1855)

Worded another way in the London Quarterly Review: A delicate green is favourable to all fair complexions which are deficient in rose, and which may have more imparted to them without inconvenience. But it is not favourable to complexions that are more red than rosy, nor to those that have a tint of orange mixed with brown, because the red they add to this tint will be of a brick-red hue. In the latter case a dark-green will be less objectionable than a delicate green. (1855) (you can tell there was plenty of quoting and paraphrasing going on.)

Published in:

Favorite Topics - Millinery/Bonnets/Ribbons

on May 23, 2014 at 12:25 pm Comments (1)
Tags: Anna's Millinery

Mrs. Bright’s and Mrs. Blank’s Journals – May

Published in:

Resources - Primary & Transcriptions

on May 23, 2014 at 11:09 am Leave a Comment
Tags: Mrs. Bright’s and Mrs. Blank’s Journals

Mrs. Bright’s and Mrs. Blank’s Journals – April

Published in:

Resources - Primary & Transcriptions

on May 22, 2014 at 6:08 am Leave a Comment
Tags: Mrs. Bright’s and Mrs. Blank’s Journals

Mrs. Bright’s and Mrs. Blank’s Journals – March

Published in:

Resources - Primary & Transcriptions

on May 21, 2014 at 6:07 am Comments (1)
Tags: Mrs. Bright’s and Mrs. Blank’s Journals

Readings for Rural Life

From Moore’s Rural New-Yorker in Rochester, NY

May 21^st, 1864

This is going to be a partial transcription because the original article is quite lengthy. I encourage you to click over to Moore’s Rural to read the entirety.

The Ladies’ National Covenant

Address to the Women of America – Home Products to be Encouraged.

A meeting of ladies was held at Washington recently, to inaugurate an important National movement. It is proper we should give the results thereof in this department of the Rural. The meeting was composed of the wives of members of the Cabinet, and of Senators and Representatives, of well-known authoresses, women of fashion, mothers who had lost their sons, and wives who had lost their husbands. There was an earnestness and a unison of feeling in this great meeting, which has never been exceeded in this land.

…

Address to the Women of America.

In the capital of our country we have this day organized a central society for the suppression of extravagance, the diminution of foreign imports, and the practice of economy in all our social relations. To this society we have given the name of “The Ladies’ National Covenant.” Its object is a good and generous one, which should inspire a spirit of patriotism worthy of women who are the glory of a great nation. For this society we have an example a precedent at once august and encouraging.

In 1770, the women of Massachusetts, actuated by the same impulse that inspires us, assembled in the City of Boston, as we have met here, and resolved to serve the country by an effort of self-sacrifice far greater than we are called upon to make.

On the 9^th of February [of that year], 300 matrons, each the mistress of a household, met as we do now, and signed a pledge to abstain from the use of tea, the greatest luxury of the time, and the very life of all the social gatherings for which our New-England ancestors were so famous. Three days after, twice that number of blooming young girls met in the same place and signed like pledges. From that brave assemblage of women non-imporation societies sprang up, that produced an effect upon the mother country almost equal to that created by the success of our revolutionary armies. During all the terrors of the war these noble women held firmly to their pledges, and by their earnestness awoke the sympathy and co-operation of every sister colony in the land. The spirit thus aroused extended itself to imported goods of all kinds, and every hearthstone was turned into an independent manufactory. Thus it was that the flax-wheel, the hatchel, and the hand-loom became sublime instruments of freedom in the hands of American women. The house mothers of ’76 not only kept their pledge of non-importation, but with their own hands wrought from the raw materials the garments which clothed themselves, their husbands, and children. The pledge which they took and kept so faithfully evoked not only great self-sacrifice, but hard, hard toil, such as the woman of the present day scarcely dream of. Had they not endured and labored while their husbands fought, we should have had no might Union to pray and struggle for now.

We, the women of ’64, have the same object to attain and the same duties to perform which were so nobly accomplished by the women of ’76. Shall we not follow their example, and take up cheerfully the lesser burdens that the welfare of our country demands? They gave up the very comforts of life without a murmur; can we refuse when a sacrifice of feminine vanity is alone required? Can we hesitate to yield up luxuries that are so unbecoming when the very earth trembles under our feet from the tread of armed men going down to battle, and almost every roof throughout the land shelters some mother lamenting the son who has fallen gloriously with his face to the foe, or a widow whose husband lies buried so deeply among the masses of slain heroes, that she will never learn where to seek for his grave?

…

In order to invoke this spirit of self-sacrifice, it is important that the great object of the covenant we have made should be broadly circulated and thoroughly understood. It discourages profligate expenditures of any kind, recommends the use of domestic fabrics whenever they can be substituted for those of foreign make, and advises simplicity of attire, both as a matter of policy and good taste. It asks the great sisterhood of American women to aid in this reform before it is too late. Thank God science has given us the means of reaching thousands on thousands in a single hour. While we make this covenant, the thought that thrills our hearts may tremble in fire along the telegraph, and awake kindred inspiration throughout the entire land. By every means of communication in our power, let us urge the necessity of prompt action. In every town and village throughout the Union, some woman who loves her country is implored to establish an auxiliary society and forward the names of the ladies invited to act for the State in which her duty lies. We ask simultaneous action, earnest work, and generous self-sacrifice at the hands of our sister women. With their ardent help, a work will be accomplished so important in its results, that the woman who shares in it may, hereafter, leave the emblem of our object as the richest jewel that she can leave to posterity.

http://www.libraryweb.org/~digitized/newspapers/moores_rural_new_yorker/vol.XV,no.21.pdf

Published in:

Resources - Primary & Transcriptions

on May 21, 2014 at 6:06 am Leave a Comment
Tags: Readings for Rural Life

Photos with Layers

Here is one of those photos we all love to see. It is filled with layers and layers of information. (The screen shot will take you to Connecticut History Online where you can zoom in on the image)