Cuffs, Collars and Undersleeves

In honor of Georgiana Goldsmith’s “Committee for Cuffs and Collars” (a Facebook post) here is a pdf image of cuffs, collars and undersleeves used in a workshop Bevin and I did a few years back. To add to that, here is a 52 page PDF of collars clipped from Peterson’s and Godey’s Magazines.

And from more recent purchases….

This is image is earlier, likely in the 50s based on her dress and sleeves (there is a reason you can’t see the whole image of each of these. Apologies.) Her collar is wider than what we see in during the CW years.

This collar is more typical of the width seen during the CW years. Note how the opening is nearly horizontal. You will see variation in this opening. The edge of this collar, as well as the one in the next image, is rolled and straight.

Look at the back of the neck. This image shows the collar wrapped around the edge of the dress’s neckline. Also notice how the collar narrows in the front. It may or may not have a slight curve as it disappears behind the broach.

In contrast to the image above, these next two show an edge above the collar that could possibly be the dress. If this is the edge of the dresses we are seeing, these collars may be tacked on the exterior. (This could be looked into further. *There is a discussion of this on The Sewing Academy.)

In the next three images you see collars with scalloped edges. These would be finished by hand. I’ve enlarged this image a bit because I know you will want to get a good look at her broach. While looking at her broach, notice the angle of the collar opening along with the width of the collar.