Tonight’s Millinery 

I have been working on a unique bonnet during this wild weather we’ve been having in Western New York. The inspiration for this piece is an 1882 bonnet in the MET collection. 

This bonnet has a crown that dips on the sides, causing the brim to curve significantly. This is a very different construction concept compared to the 1850s and 1860s hats I make. 


This bonnet is currently not available for sale. I want to decorate it for a contest. I just have to decide how closely I want to be to the original and how closely I can be considering the matching silk and ribbon. 

Published in: on March 15, 2017 at 7:36 pm  Comments (2)  

Announcing the 2017 Spring Sew Along – A Rolled Sewing Case

At long last, the 2017 Spring Sew Along is here!
Join us in making a Rolled Sewing Case with an Exclusive Tin Tube made by the craftsman at the Genesee Country Village and Museum.

This rolled sewing case, also called a housewife or huswife, unrolls to reveal a hollow base which can hold spools of thread. The hollow section of this sewing case is large enough to hold period correct spools of thread. When I tested mine, I found it held three small wooden spools, two large wooden spools or one Coats and Clark with one Guttenburg spool.

Using techniques from Fanciful Utility, you choose whether to add a pocket, scissors pocket, needle-pages or other period correct storage spaces to your sewing case.

The base of this sewing case is a hand crafted tin tube and ends made by the tinsmiths at the Genesee Country Village and Museum. The tin tubes are available exclusively through the Genesee Country Village and Museum’s Crafts in the Village program for a donation of $5 each, plus $7.15 Priority shipping. Send requests and donation with shipping to: ATTN Deanna Berkemeier; Genesee Country Village and Museum; 1410 Flint Hill Road; Mumford, NY 14511. Please make check or money orders out to Genesee Country Village with Crafts in the Village in the memo line. Locals can email dberkemeier at GCV dot org to arrange pickup at. 

Please order by March 31st so we can all begin our Sew Along together in April. 

Comment below or message Anna that you will be participating. You may also wish to join the Fanciful Utility Sew Along group on Facebook.

 
img_20170310_162242.jpgRecommended materials (dimensions given with leeway for cutting.)

  • Your copy of Fanciful Utility
  • Tin Tube Kit from GCVM
  • Exterior material: Leather, oil cloth, painted canvas, wool, tapestry  – 6″ by 12″
  • Interior fabric: Silk taffeta, quilt weight cotton or tropical wool (also for end caps) – 6″by 14″
  • Interior pockets: Silk, leather, cotton as desired
  • Hand full of wool batting
  • 2 yards of 5/8″ cotton sateen ribbon img_20170310_163346.jpg
  • Thin cotton or wool batting. Felted wool will also work. – 6″by 12″
  • Wool flannel or felted wool for needle pages

 

Published in: on March 14, 2017 at 3:49 pm  Comments (19)  

Wind Storm Hat, aka Tonight’s Millinery 

Wednesday we had quite the wind storm wreak havoc on our area. The hurricane force winds knocked out the power in homes throughout several countries. Here, our hundred year old trees held right while neighbors trees snap, power lines ripped from their homes and roofs crushed in. Our town and one adjacent were told not to go outside and banned from travel. I sewed by window light. 

Here is Windy, a Regency era hat with a tapered crown and narrow brim. The crown measures 21″ inside. Being round, it fits comfortably on my head in a couple different ways. Tilted further back, centered over a high bun feels very natural. The crown is 5 1/2″ tall. The brim 10″ across. 

I still need to get it up in the Etsy shop. This is one of those hats I both really like for myself and would enjoy decorating. Thus some delay. EDIT: Now available in the shop. 

Reference images:

On the far right, 1803

1804 

A bit taller. I think this is 1815. 

Published in: on March 10, 2017 at 10:38 pm  Comments (2)  

Beth’s Bobbins Reviews From Field to Fashion

Hop over to Beth’s Bobbins to read her Review of From Field to Fashion.

Thank you, Beth, for the review.

From Field to Fashion is available in my Etsy Shop.

 

Published in: on March 7, 2017 at 6:30 am  Leave a Comment  

Tonight’s Millinery 

This fashionable Civil War era straw hat is ideal for a promenade about town. 

The shallow, oval crown is favored by this with average to small head. The three inch wide brim dips forward and back.  

This hat is available in my Etsy shop.

Published in: on March 6, 2017 at 6:35 pm  Comments (4)  

CW Era Hats – Symmetry vs Asymmetry

I was asked about a few millinery related things in the past migraine infused week. Here is one quick look at symmetry and asymmetry in straw hats of the Civil War era. (Please note: This does not break down the location of trim by yearly or seasonal fashion.)

 

svsa

Image Sources:

MET, MFA, Peterson’s Magazine, assorted pins on Pinterest.

Published in: on March 6, 2017 at 6:00 am  Comments (1)  

Today’s Millinery 

This Civil War era bonnet is ideal for a working class impression. 

This bonnet will best fit an average to small head. The cheek tabs turns in slightly, and will hold the bonnet to your head at your neck like originals. 

As with my other straw millinery, this bonnet is entirely hand sewn. 

This bonnet is available in my Etsy shop. 

Published in: on March 5, 2017 at 10:30 am  Comments (2)  

A Couple More Bandeaus 

A red and black.


A couple quick shots of me wearing it.

An all red.

Published in: on February 27, 2017 at 9:20 pm  Comments (1)  

Today’s Millinery 

Tonight I finished a Civil War era straw hat. This hat has just a hint of curve to the brim. It is blocked with an antique crown and brim block. 

I’ve decided this crown block needs a name to make it easier for patrons to find their favorites. This one will be called Delia, as I happen to be watching Angel and think this shape would fit Cordelia nicely. The Delia crown is 21.5″ in circumference, 6.5″ wide and 7.5″ front to back. This will nicely fit those with an average to large head or those who prefer the feel of a rounder crown. *Remember, this era hat is worn higher on the head compared to where we are accustom to for modern wear. 


This hat is available in my Etsy shop.
 

Published in: on February 27, 2017 at 7:46 pm  Comments (4)  

Chapeaux in Blue and Velvet 

A band of black velvet highlights the curve of this chapeaux’s brim. Inside, the brim is lined with silk taffeta in a blue and black check. Lush blue satin ribbon ties this bonnet and wraps around the crown, gathered with loops of black velvet. 


The straw plait is entirely hand sewn and blocked. The black velvet ribbon is Hyman Hendler’s Renaissance satin back and the blue satin is his as well. The blue and black check taffeta is 100% silk. Inside the crown is a 100% cotton sateen ribbon. 

Available in my Etsy shop. 

Published in: on February 25, 2017 at 1:34 pm  Leave a Comment  
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