Millinery Monday – The Upturned Brim

I had previously seen the name “Caledonian” adjacent to the Chapeaux Cloche I find to be a most sensible style.  In this case, the hat was more petite with an abruptly turned up brim. I found it to be closer to a toque style hat.

Caledonian and chapeaux cloche godeys 1862

The black brimmed and white crowned Caledonian from the August 1861 Peterson’s Magazine essentially takes the fashionable shaped hat of the era and turns up the brim edge. The brim retains its curve while turning up substantially all the way around.

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This type of turned up brim appears in fashion illustrations with other names attached as well. In Madam Demorest’s publications, we see it called the Burnside Riding Hat and the Boulevard.

This turned up brim does appear in photographs as well. I was pleased to acquire an image with a nice example of this upturned brim. This image shows how the brim is turned up significantly while remaining shaped all around. The brim dips in a curve in the front, and dips in the back.

This is a hat I need to replicate. I am thinking through how to develop the upturned brim while fashionably shaping the brim without a brim block in hand. I anticipate some wiring hidden further in the brim, as well as on the edge.

Published in: on July 6, 2020 at 10:35 am  Comments (2)  

Millinery Monday – Popularity of White Straws

You may have noticed, I have been making several millinery pieces of white straw lately. This is because with the pandemic induced straw shortage, I ordered a bunch of white straw since I couldn’t get my natural Milan straw.

Of course, this prompted me to look further into white straw. I knew I had read plenty about white straw hats and bonnets in the past. But, now, I wanted to take a closer look at the use of white straw and what it was commonly trimmed with.

The July 1861 edition of Peterson’s shows that white hats were worn by children, young women, and women with these descriptions of a “Child’s Hat”, a “Misses’ Hat”, and “The Caledonian Riding Hat”. I am, of course, intrigued by the “fancy straw button”, the “large black straw button,” and “straw ornaments.”

July 1861 Petersons white straw

 

The month following shows this Caledonian hat with the white crown and black brim. (August 1861 Petersons) I will be coming back to this style hat in a near future post.

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White straw was not exclusive to hats of course. Madame Demorest shares a few white bonnets with us in her M’me Demorest’s Quarterly Mirror of Fashions, 1863

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The irony of the moment is that as I finish up writing this post I started last Monday, this Monday I am working with some pink straw. Go figure.

Published in: on July 6, 2020 at 10:05 am  Comments (1)  

Summer Video Series –

I am parting from today’s Millinery Monday plan to bring you some living history community news.

You can find the GoFundMe for Melissa and family here.

If you are not already familiar with In The Swan’s Shadow you can find it here.

Published in: on July 6, 2020 at 9:59 am  Leave a Comment  

Liberty’s Independence Day

For today’s video, I decided to do something a little different. Last minute, I decided to take Liberty with me this morning. I am glad I did.

This was a different Independence day at the museum. Instead of parading or picnicking, I attended as a visitor. I only stayed about two and a half hours. That was just about right for my head. I picked up a commemorative pie plate for myself and for Lily. (I should message her that I got her one.) I got the only marzipan in the Confectionary and some hand pies. I did record a video of me talking while I was there. But I like this idea better. (I may add the other as that has some personal thoughts.)

By the way….. Someone worked really hard in the off season. The Flint Hill Store looks incredible. I love the layout, the lightness, and the floor. Nice work. (This may be the only store I go in this summer.)

I am a little irritated that much of the text moved from where I put it in the editor. This is the first time I’ve had this happen with WeVideo. Since I am using the free version right now, I can’t go back and fix it.
(Wevideo Link – https://www.wevideo.com/hub#media/ci/1766388978 )

Yum pie……

Published in: on July 4, 2020 at 2:55 pm  Comments (2)  

Summer Video Series: Follow With Heart

Today, I want to share the work of a historian I am honored to know.

Please take a moment to watch this 4th of July message from Not Your Momma’s History.

Published in: on July 3, 2020 at 10:00 am  Comments (1)  

Summer Video Series – A New Book

A Woman’s Views on Women via HathiTrust

https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/001055242.

Published in: on July 2, 2020 at 11:25 am  Leave a Comment  

Summer Video Series – Decoupage

Today’s video is me starting a decoupage trinket tray. In the video, I say I am not sure if it is technically decoupage or papermache. It is decoupage.

I mention this site, but say it wrong. The site is Eclectibles. The page is their handmade ephemera. You need to check out the assortment of pieces they are offering. There is so.e very cool stuff.

Published in: on July 1, 2020 at 12:25 pm  Leave a Comment  

Summer Video Series – The Smallest Dolls

Today I share my smallest dolls (and complain about allergies.)

Published in: on June 30, 2020 at 10:01 am  Comments (1)  

Summer Video Series – Patriotic Millinery

This morning’s video talks a little about patriotic attire and a white straw hat I will be decorating today.

The following are from Madame Demorest’s Quarterly publication in 1861:

 

Published in: on June 29, 2020 at 7:55 am  Leave a Comment  

Summer Video Series

Published in: on June 28, 2020 at 10:33 am  Comments (1)