Footwear related tid-bits

From Vicki Betts’ newspaper research:

NASHVILLE DISPATCH, October 24, 1863, p. 2, c. 2
“About Stockings.
                The Empress Eugenie, having established crinoline, has allowed her imagination to take a lower flight, and aspire to set the feminine world its fashion in the matter of stockings.  She has discarded white stockings, and wears blue and white striped, though she should have added a third color, namely, red, and then she should have the tri-color just where the legitimists would to have it like under her foot.  Can her hostility to white stockings be based on the circumstances that white is the old Bourbon color, if white can be called a color?  Certainly the change she has introduced cannot be held an improvement, white stockings being for woman the prettiest things in which they can put their pretty feet.  “A white stocking is infinitely more effective than a black one,” says Mr. Hawthorne, speaking with express reference to young women’s feet, and so forth; and few will dissent from his opinion.  It is better than any other kind of stocking.  James II, when Duke of York, preferred to green stockings, on an interesting occasion, as readers of Grammont will recollect; but he was not a disinterested judge.  Blue stockings are objects of prejudice, though Francis Jeffrey said that it mattered little how blue the stocking is, provided the petticoats be long enough to hide it; but long petticoats are a nuisance, and petticoats never can be tolerated long anywhere.  Black stockings ought to be worn only under peculiar circumstances.  Flesh-colored stockings are open to the charge of being delusive.  The yellow stocking belongs properly only to English charity boys; and the red stocking should be confined to very young people, or to persons old enough to be in their second childhood, or to cardinals.  Pink stockings are nice in their places, which are the feet of young women, but they do not show well on either middle-aged or large ladies, who are often very handsome, and therefore should have handsome footings.  In fact, the pink stocking is fit for girls only.  Grey stockings go well with grey hairs. Mixed, or speckled, or spotted, or ringed, or streaked stockings can be used for show only by children, though some of them answer for a change.  But none or all of these can displace the white stocking, which is an old favorite, and not to be put down, though occasionally it may be thrown into the back ground.  Like the hoop, it is never long out of fashion.  The French Empress will find that she has “put her foot into it” by taking it out of the white stocking, which is to women what to the garden is the white rose.”

MEMPHIS DAILY APPEAL [MEMPHIS, TN], March 3, 1861, p. 1, c. 2-3
“Ladies’ Dresses in Muddy Weather.
            It is an unpleasant sight to see the ladies on the streets, on rainy days, allow their dresses to rail in the mud.  This is unpardonable.  There is no impropriety in raising the skirts high enough to keep them out of the dirt.  There is a very unladylike prudery in refusing to raise them slightly when cleanliness requires it. It is not necessary, however, for any lady to hold her dress with her hands to keep it out of the mud.  The English woman, says an European writer, understanding these things better than we, go out walking in rain and mud, wearing long dresses, and without taking their hands from their muffs, come home with the clothing as clean as when they started.  How do they do it?  They wear skirts that do not reach lower than the ankle; short enough, in fact, to keep clear of the mud without any lifting.  The dress is worn long, but is looped up when the lady is in the street.  The loops are a late invention, and are now the fashion in Great Britain.  A woman who should go out in muddy weather without them would be considered a prude.  They are made thus:
            There is a belt of black ribbon, three quarters of an inch wide, and long enough to go around the lady’s waist, with a hook at one end and an eye at the other, as a fastening; a piece of the same kind of ribbon, three yards long, is attached to the end and the middle of the belt.  The belt is now put on with the hook and eye in front; and hanging down on each side is a loop of black ribbon, three quarters of a yard long.  When a lady is about to go out, she puts on her belt, and puts a part of the lower portion of her dress through each loop, which is thus raised into four festoons, and all of it is above the lower edge of the petticoat.
            She then walks out with her hands free, her dress clear, and her conscience at ease; and if she wishes to enter a house, she can take her dress out of the loops in an instant.  The looped dress is not only clean but graceful, and it shows a white petticoat, one of the most beautiful articles of ladies’ apparel, to much advantage.  In England, however, a white petticoat is not considered indispensable; on the contrary, scarlet woolen petticoats are much worn by most fashionable people, as are also red woolen stockings.  Indeed the white cotton stockings are the exception, and not the rule for London wear in winter.  Wool is ordinarily worn, sometimes scarlet, or scarlet with black stripes, or plaid with a variety of colors.  And then, the shoes are not of thin cloth with paper soles, but Balmoral boots, with heavy uppers and thick soles, lacing up in front, as if they were made for beings of flesh and blood, bred on roast beef, and good for real service, hard work, sturdy health and long life.  Our American women are too much in the habit of following bad fashions, and neglecting good ones.  If they will just adopt the healthful practices, as well as the expensive luxuries, of European aristocracy, it will be far better, as well as more creditable to them.  We are glad to see, however, that a correct taste is being exercised by our ladies.  They study health and comfort more than the fashions, and we may expect to see them as rosy-cheeked and robust as any of our English cousins.—Home Journal.” 

DAILY CONSTITUTIONALIST [AUGUSTA, GA], April 14, 1861, p. 3, c. 2.
            “Protection for Woman’s Foot.—Women must go much in the open air at all seasons of the year, or become pale and feeble.  But in order to do this, their boots must be radically changed.
            As preliminary to this greatly needed reform, we must first get rid of the strange hallucination that where a strong man needs cowhide, a feeble woman needs only morrocco; that where a strong man needs an inch of hard, impervious sole, a feeble woman needs only a quarter inch of soft, spongy sole; that where the strongest Irishman needs thick woolen socks, a delicate, consumptive lady needs only a gauzy silk stocking.  This singular madness must be first scattered.
            But surely one need not seriously discuss such a matter.  If women must go much in the open air at all seasons of the year, (and no one with five grains of common sense doubts it,) then it needs no argument to show that women should wear as much protection on their feet as men find it necessary to wear.  Neither can it require much argument to show that those rubbers which prove so pernicious to the feet of men, must, to say the least, be quite as unhealthy for women.
            Prescriptions for a Fashionable Lady.—Madame, allow me to prescribe for you.  I have had a long experience in the management of delicate women, and believe I can give you some important advice.  For the present, I prescribe only for your feet:
            1.  Procure a quantity of woolen stockings, not such as you buy at the store, under the name of lamb’s wool, that you can read a newspaper through, but the kind that your Aunt Jerusha in the country knits for you, thick as a board, that will keep you dry and warm, in spite of wind and weather.
            2.  If you want to be really thorough, change them every morning, having the fresh ones hang by the fire during the night.
            3.  Procure thick calf skin boots, double uppers and triple soles, and wear them from the first of October until the first of April.  Make frequent applications of some good oil blacking.
            4.  Avoid rubbers altogether, except a thick layer, which you should have cemented to the bottom of the soles.
            5.  Hold your feet in cold water an inch deep, five or six minutes before going to bed, and have them rubbed hard with some one’s naked hand.
            6.  Now, Madame, go much out of doors at all seasons, and believe me not only will your feet have a good circulation, but, as a consequence, your head will be relieved of its pain and congestion, and your heart be relieved of its accumulations.—Boston Journal of Physical Culture.  ”

(Hmmm… found the text limit when posting from my phone.)

Published in: on August 30, 2012 at 5:08 pm  Comments (1)  

Trunks in a Shop

We saw several trunks a moment ago. I’ll come back and add a little about each. For now, can you guess which I want?

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Published in: on June 17, 2012 at 1:07 pm  Comments (2)  
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The Life and Age of Woman

 When I saw this over the weekend, I really, really wanted it. But, I couldn’t cover the price. *pout* I’ve wanted to have my own copy

This hand-colored lithograph may be attributable to Kelloggs & Comstock. I say may because there are several similar image that each attributed to a different person or persons between 1848 and 1850. (See below for some variations.) Moving up and down the stairs we see a woman at at each stage of her life. At the left and right we see trees symbolizing youthful vitality and motherly caring. Beneath the women are miniature illustrations of that stage in life.

In the very center of the stairs is the burial plot. Along the bottom we read of each stage of life:

 

This is a different version attributed to Nathaniel Currier and James Merritt Ives, ca 1848-50. Here is yet another variation attributed to James Baille, ca 1848. This site provides a nice zoom tool for seeing Baille’s version. This version at Harvard, is one I would really like because the top figure is wearing a shawl. Yes, I have an obsession.

A similar look at the life of man was also created as well as a temperance look at alcohol.

Published in: on June 6, 2012 at 4:27 pm  Comments (3)  

A Must Have Book

When looking for tid-bits to accompany my previous post on neckerchiefs, I discovered first a neat description of a carriage bag then what I would call a Must Read Book for anyone who sews any type of reproduction anything from the mid-nineteenth century.  This description happens to be in said book:

To Make Up Carriage Bags

Very nice frames are sold for these. They are of a stout calico on the outside, and a nice striped ditto inside, with a handkerchief pocket. The sides are of leather; and the upper of the frame and the handles are the same. The work should be one piece for both sides – the canvas, of cloth edges turned in at the sides, and sewed to the edges of the bag. At the top, the edge of the canvas must be laid under the leather, which is stitched down over it. The handles are merely tacked on. They must be removed for mounting, and afterwards carefully sewed down in the same places over the canvas. Cover all the seams, and the edges of the leather along the top, with a fine silk cord. Observe that the work must be made to fit the frame, not the latter to the work, as frames are made only in certain gradations of size, except to order; and what is call an out size, even if smaller, always more expensive.

I would love to have an illustration of the frame the author writes about. Depending on what that frame really looks like, I can picture a few different versions of this bag coming together.

Now on to this must read book.

If you have not read The Lady’s Dictionary of Needlework; A Complete Guide to all the Signs, Terms, and Contractions Used in Every Sort of Fancy Work with Illustrated Instructions for the Elementary Stitches, hop over to Google Books and download it. I am pretty certain I have stumbled on this book before while compiling shawl information, but I never scrolled cover to cover so to speak. I should have. This book is packed full of useful information – a glossary of material, stitches and oodles of how-tos. This is one I would very much like to see reproduced or at least reprinted so I could pull it from the shelf as needed. Lacking that, I foresee a trip to my printer sometime soon to see about printing up a copy for myself.

Published in: on May 25, 2012 at 5:25 pm  Leave a Comment  

Kerchief Images

I had a request for images to help show how to wear the kerchief style shown in yesterday’s post.
Here is a link to Lily Martin Spencer’s Shake Hands at the Ohio Historical Society. The subject wears a kerchief around the neck crossing in the front. It may or may not be secured with a knot or pin.
http://www.ohiochannel.org/MediaLibrary/Media.aspx?fileId=4053&returnTo=Collection

Here are two photos of me wearing a kerchief. In each case a good portion of the kerchief is inside the neckline. Perspiration ends up on the kerchief more so hen the neck of the dress.

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(Yes, my hair is falling down. Building fences is hard work.)

Published in: on May 25, 2012 at 9:10 am  Leave a Comment  

Kerchief

When I recently mentioned the possibility of writing out and publishing my fashionable fichu pattern, a friend and reader asked me about a neckerchief style fichu. It took me a few more weeks to get that information to her than I initially planned due to the wild fun of work and husband sewing. But, finally I did. Now, here that information is for everyone else.

Since I am very fond of V neck dresses, I find a long diamond a very useful and functional form of neckerchief. (Oh, I should say it seems through the first half of the century the word fichu referred to a kerchief that was worn about the neck. Then as we reach the 50s, or the mid-50s, the word fichu is used for a more fashionable accessory still worn about the neck technically, though it was more often pictured draped around the shoulders, high at the neck in the back, then falling gracefully over the bust to the waist or past, sometime crossing in the front. The accessory I am showing here is of the first instance.) Folded lengthwise, the short points nicely tuck inside my dress’s collar following the V in front. Sometimes I will pin the point of the V the kerchief creates, other times I will leave it as is. My use of this diamond shape comes from a discussion on The Sewing Academy some years back. So, I can not take credit for the initial design.

This diamond shape can be seen in several extant kerchiefs including:

To make this version of a kerchief, I cut a diamond as shown in the illustration. The diamond is 40 to 44 inches long and 10 to 15 inches wide from point to point. This size fits nicely across the width of most modern fabric. The fold line should be set on the bias. On the body, this length will drape around the neck, over the inner bust down to about the ribcage. The length should be long enough to sit inside the front of the bodice without pulling out while you work. I prefer less bulk and go with a narrower short width. A wider short width would be helpful if the kerchief is to be used during labor where one expects to perspire more.

The edges can all be finished simply with a rolled hem. The short points can be rounded off into a nice curve as well. If you are good at fancy needlework, add something decorative as well.

Another type of kerchief is half of this design, as if it was cut and hemmed along the fold line in the illustration. This long triangle is half the fabric, thus half the bulk of the diamond version. This shape appears quite frequently in originals. Without tabulating to be certain, I suspect the triangular version appears more frequently than the diamond version.  You can see examples here:

As you can see from each of the examples, a variety of materials were used. This is supported by this passage from The Ladies’ Work-Table Book. The passage mentions different treatments of the edges. It also mentions a curious bit about tapes which will be nice to learn more about.

 Neck and Pocket Handkerchiefs – These are made of a great variety of materials, as silk, muslin, cambric, lawn, and net. The neck handkerchiefs are generally a half square, and are hemmed all around. It is a good plan to turn up the extreme corners, as it makes it more strong and durable. A tape is set on, which comes ‘round the waist, and ties in front. Sometimes a broad muslin hem is put on the two straight sides, which looks extremely well. Some ladies work a border to their neck handkerchief, which gives to those made of net the appearance of lace. Pocket handkerchiefs are neatly hemmed, and sometimes have a worked border. Those used by gentlemen are of a larger size than those of ladies. (The Ladies’ Work-Table Book.)

Published in: on May 24, 2012 at 5:23 pm  Comments (6)  

Excellent Article Discussing How to Research

Beth Chamberlain has posted an excellent article on her blog walking through evidence based research with her current interest of gloves as a model. Please take a look as she very clearly describes this method.
Beth’s Article

Published in: on April 28, 2012 at 7:34 pm  Leave a Comment  

A Year of Images

Petersons 62 April Soldier of 76 returning after peace

Petersons 62 April Soldier of 76 returning after peace

Published in: on April 27, 2012 at 1:29 am  Leave a Comment  

A Year of Images

Petersons 62 April interior

Published in: on April 13, 2012 at 1:28 am  Leave a Comment  

A Year of Images

Published in: on March 30, 2012 at 1:27 am  Leave a Comment