Slow Lemonade

Sometimes, the process of making lemonade out of lemons is a very slow one. Bringing this original 1850s-1860s black straw mourning bonnet back to life is one of those times.

This beautiful straw mourning bonnet was shipped in a soft mailer without any protection. It arrived nearly flat with a fracture down the center top and a crushed crown tip. Given my plans to have this bonnet accompany me for spring millinery presentations, I felt as crushed as the bonnet when I took it from it’s poly-mailer.

Trying to make the most of the situation and not wanting to give up on the piece,  I’ve been experimenting with techniques for stabilizing the bonnet.

Left: The bonnet as it looked in December as it relaxed back to shape over one of my millinery blocks. Right: The bonnet this weekend after several multi-hour sessions.
Damage to the crown tip. Left: The bonnet was basically folded in half with a straight fracture along the top of the brim. The crown tip broke in an arch around the plait spiral. Right: The majority of the straw was able to be secured to support foundation.

I had to make a difficult decision when it came to the support. Ideally, I would remove the trims and lining, then add the support. But, with the extent of the damage I knew picking out all the stitches would likely cause more damage and potentially cause the whole bonnet to fall apart. I decided to place the support over the lining and work through it. Sadly, this covered the maker number tag inside.

It still needs some work, including another spa session on a millinery block, steaming the crepe frill back to shape and carving an archival foam support.

Published in: on May 10, 2025 at 3:33 pm  Comments (1)  

One CommentLeave a comment

  1. Beattiful restoration …too bad some folks don’t think things through…so glad this bonnet came to you . You certainly knew how to handle it properly.


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