The most common sewn winter hood of the early through mid-nineteenth century was the quilted hood. This type of hood most often consisted of three pieces: the brim, crown, and bavolet, each of which were quilted with a lining fabric, outer fabric, and wadding or batting inside.
The shape and proportions of the individual brim, crown, and bavolet pieces and some construction details evolved from decade to decade, reflecting the needs of changing hair styles. When the coiffure was placed high on the head, more space was needed high in the crown. When the coiffure was placed low on the neck, an adjustable bavolet to crown seam was needed.
Most commonly, a tight weave silk taffeta was used for the exterior material. A tigh weave, smooth wool is also seen in originals for the exterior. A tight weave with a smooth surface helps snow slide off of the hood with minimal moisture absorption.
The wadding or batting is most often wool, though occasionally other fibers. The bits of wool batting peeking through seams, fractures, and holes in original hoods range from white to golden/orangey yellows to dark browns. I have observed both cleaned and uncleaned wool with plant fibers inside. I have found fulled wool fabric quilted inside original hoods as well.
Inside quilted hoods, linings most often consist of polished cotton or silk, though to a much lesser extent printed cottons are also found. The smooth surface of a polished cotton or silk causes less disruption to the wearer’s hair. The front few inches of the brim can be faced with another silk, solid, striped, or plaid. Often, this facing is on the bias. On multiple pieces, I have observed ribbon used for the facing, pieced together on the bias.
Some quilted bonnets have structural support used in the construction. So far, I have found: wires, cane, paper, pasteboard, buckram, and straw.
New Quilted Winter Hood Workbook
I am currently working on a new workbook focusing on quilted hoods, ca 1840-1860s. This workbook will include an assortment of quilted hoods in my collection with detail photographs and walk through how to make a quilted hood with patterns for three hoods.
I had planned to have it available this week, but I over scheduled myself and find myself behind. The good news is I finished the first of three samples for the directions section last night. I will focus on finishing the workbook during Thanksgiving recess and have available asap.
The next winter workbook will either be doll hoods or children’s hoods. Which would you prefer?
If I Had My Own Blue Box: 
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