Marie Stuart Bonnets – pt 2

The Marie Stuart bonnet appears in both American and European (London and Paris) publications during the Civil War. The distinctive Marie Stuart shape of the crown varies in the depth of the dip as well as the curviness of the dip. The overall size of the bonnet varies, as does the width. In general, bonnets become smaller late in the war (while emphasising height). Some Marie Stuart bonnets seem to narrow though the sides as well.

MS Feb 1863MS Sept 1863 a

“The Important Subject of Bonnets, and the form they are likely to assume during the forth coming summer, is still a disputed point. Will they continue to be worn high, or are we to wear Marie Stuarts? are questions anxiously asked, but which as yet nobody can answer with any degree of certainty. All we can say on the  subject is, that we have not as yet seen the Marie Stuart bonnets adopted at any of the fashionable resorts, although we are constantly assured, on what would generally be considered reliable authority, that nothing else is to be worn. In Paris the same indecision prevails; the ladies of the Court and of the Chaussee d’Antin continue to wear the high upright bonnets, while the fair denizens of Faubourhs Saint-Germain and Saint Honore have all adopted the Marie Stuart form – not the decided Marie Stuart with a pointed front, as the title would indicate, but with the front slightly coming forward and lowered, imparting a very modest quiet appearance to the wearer – so much so that French milliners have christened this form “The Quaker bonnet.” But one thing is certain, whether the Marie Stuarts are ultimately adopted in London or not, and that is that all the newest forms are made much smaller and less exaggerated, and follow more closely the outline of the face than was the case a month or six weeks ago.” Arthur’s Home Magazine, July 1863MS La Follet Dec 1863

The later war years finds these references:

“One was of black tulle, and of the Marie Stuart form; a fringe of bugles was placed round the front. This bonnet was covered with a fanchon of white guipure. In place of the curtain was a puffing of black tulle, on which were fastened a few black cherries drooping on to the back hair. The strings were of broad black ribbon; over the ends was a broad patte of quipure. A white tulle scarf was fastened under the fanchon of lace, and tied under the chin, over the strings.” (La Follet, July 1864)

“Bonnet of crape. Curtain covered with lace. At the edge of the front is a scarf, with a bunch of flowers on the top. Marie Stuart pointe, edged with lace, falling over the flowers in the cap, and strings of ribbon.” (La Follet, March 1864)

MS La Follet April 1864

Published in: on March 3, 2014 at 4:00 pm  Leave a Comment  

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