As this weekend is packed full already, there won’t be any sewing likely. I am hoping to get in some sketching for my bodice. I know how I want the front to look. That is just going to be a matter of draping. The back is another story. Looking at originals and sketches, this era seems to have a greater variety in back construction than the 40s, 50s and 60s do.
Here are some of the bodice back constructions I am seeing (pulled from Costume in Detail):
With these in mind, I’m leaning in one of two directions. This is the safer direction. The construction seems simple with lines that make sense to me. With this type of back, the sleeve placement should be easy enough to find.
The other option I find quite tempting is this cross-over back. With the cross-over front I have in mind, this would complement nicely. I would still want the closure to be in the front. Although, this back closure looks easy. The part where this dress has the nice front and back cross-over is quite appealing.
Now, I do have a bodice related snag. After reading this article, I need to put my stays back on to compare. I’m concerned I should have put in gussets. My mid-century corsets are all about gussets. Gail shaped this very nicely to my body. So, maybe she got the right fit without the gussets. Fingers crossed since the bones are already set in.
Thinking a bit about the sleeves. Here is one thought (there will be many more). This is a simple sleeve. If I can get one of the gold motifs to sit centered, that could be nice. It might need applique. 
A side note – I do wish I had a list of hem circumferences. I was only able to pull a couple from CD. I think I’m leaning towards a 96″ petti hem and a 112″-120″ dress hem. The metal weave is rather stiff. Around the hem, I think it will hold out some body rather than hang.
If I Had My Own Blue Box: 
Have you been able to get Hunnisett yet? The skirt diagrams are taken from originals and will give you some better figures. Or send me an email and I’ll type them out for you tonight or tomorrow.
None of my ILLs have made it yet. It seems someone else in this area has checked out the books I want.
Thank you for the offer. I’ll email you.
I woke up thinking I sleep so much better when working on millinery. Bonets are a bout balance and placement; dress planning is so much more about numbers. Thinking about draping & folding silk helps me fall asleep. Thinking about numbers energizes the brain. I spent my mid-night waking hours thinking about petti 7 skirt numbers that just didn’t seem right. Afterall, why would a Regency petti be the same hem circ as my 50s underpetti?
Then came an email. Thank you, thank you, thank you Ginger!!!
Those numbers make so much more sense. The explaination of the skirt shapes was an enormous help. My too big hem numbers come from a few flaws – I only had a couple hem numbers from original dresses, I was also looking at sketches of others dress plans. I know huge mistake looking something other than the originals.
I am also relieved to be able to use straight rectangular panels. With the gold border, this will be easier. I may be able to work slight gores on the sides while not loosing border direction.
I’ll work out a more sensible width for my petti, working with the fabric width. Then I’ll plan out the skirt width based on how the petti falls. I do think the metal threads being stiff will hold the skirt to look fuller than it actually is. So, your comment to err small will be doubly right.
Thank you!
Anna
😀