How I Made the Hood Veil

Many people have asked about the veil I made for the hood last week. I’m happy to share. But first I must say the person who has done the research along with the trial and error on veils is Bevin Lynn. She’s done a good deal of research and working with different shapes, materials and colors. I keep waiting and hoping that she will put all of her great work into an article. But, now she has herself incredibly busy. So, we shall see.

In the meantime…..

The veil I made was a request from a client to go with her black taffeta winter hood. She wanted both some sun/glare protection for her eyes and face protection from the cold winter wind.

This black silk hood is edged with black velvet and is draped with a veil. Commission/Sold

I used the 3mm silk gauze from Dharma which Bevin determined to work nicely. I chose black. They have a white which can be dyed. Bevin determined plain white actually makes the sun glare worse. Dharma’s gauze comes 45″ wide. The selvage is there but barely so, therefore usable. I do not know if there is a comparable net to originals at an affordable price.

For this veil I went back and forth deciding between a simple rectangle or the semi-oval/fruit wedge shape. Since I had not worked with this incredibly fine gauze before, I opted for hemming the straight lines for the rectangle. (The hemming wasn’t bad at all. So, the curve should be quite doable.) I cut the gauze in half to get a piece 36″ by 22.5″ giving a veil approx 35″ by 21″, which is in the realm of the original sizes I looked at online. One tip for working with this gauze, this slippery gauze – find your cutting line and draw out a thread from the weave. This is easy enough to do slowly and gently. The drawn thread will provide a cutting line when laid against a contrasting surface.
I do not have the skill to do the incredibly beautiful lace work on the edge. I used a simple rolled hem, which I rolled over three times rather than twice. The hem is about 1/8th of an inch wide. I tend to use a technique where I dampen the edge of fine fabric for a hand-rolled hem. Liz has a technique where she presses the first turn, trims it and uses a stitch to grab the edge and draw it into the hem.(I’ll grab that link when I re-find it.) The gauze did hem nicely to the point where I stopped dampening the silk because it turned quite nicely without much fraying. This hem went on both sides and the bottom edge.
For the top, which is where I put the selvage, I turned under a half inch hem with enough space to draw a cord through. On either end of the cord, I made a loop. I was really guessing here since I didn’t want to bug Bevin on her way to Zoar. Another option would have been to gather the veil onto a ribbon (example). I wanted my client to have the flexiblity of moving the veil to her other bonnets or hood as she needed, making the flexiblity of the drawn cord a better option.
The veil is simply drawn up on the cord, centered on the hood and pinned in place.


Published in: on September 27, 2011 at 8:51 am  Leave a Comment  
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