One of my favorite garments became one of my favorite garments a few winters back. Oddly enough, this 19th century garment became a favorite in a 21st century way. I already had a couple red wool pettis, which I loved. It was time to make a quilted petti. So, I did using wool batting and a favorite fabric selvaged from a less than fabulous dress, that reminded me of Grandpa because it had wheat in the stripes. Being a teacher in NY, I often was up and on my way to work well before the snow plows were to far into their routes and in less than wonderful temperatures. Now, add to that my creaky, achy knees and you can imagine the drive in was not so great. One particularly cold morning, when several other school districts were closed due to the cold, I opted for my 19th century coat, hood and new quilted petticoat. It was wonderful. I was toasty warm despite the frigid temperatures. That quilted petti was worn many times over after that.
Fast forward to New Mexico. I didn’t think I would end up missing a warm quilted petticoat of all things. But, there is something about the snuggly softness as well as the warmth it could provide on evening drives after the temperature drops and my husband doesn’t like a warm car. Since I have this black print fabric with a green tone that just kept saying it wanted to be a quilted petti, it is time to make one. Here is the fabric.
The inside is a nice white muslin which is a tad thicker and softer then most muslins we see. The petti is two 44″ panels, 36″ long with 30″ of quilting. So far the quilting design is 4″ scalloping along the bottom with a 1″ quilt from the bottom edge for now. This might change as I go because I think the very bottom below the scalloping wants something. The top is a chain of 2.5″ wide () shapes, which I can’t think of the name of right now. The field in-between will be vertical stripes of a yet to be determined distance. I may do double sets with two very close together. I’m a little tempted to add some batting in small circles, called Trapunto, under the scallops. But, I don’t think that is common for this era.
Now, of course I can’t post about quilted pettis without some background or originals. I thought I remembered a passage from The Workwoman’s Guide, but I can’t seem to find it, just the flannel pettis. So, here are originals instead:
This is a green silk one from the 40s.
1850s wool petti with a 167″ hem listed
Green wool petti which I don’t think is reversible as they say. It has a 74″ hem.
Quilted cotton petti with narrow strip quilting on the bottom and diamonds on top. 107″ hem
This petti is post war, but a must see for the fabric and shaping. This one is also post war, 1865, but shows nice wide wadding sections.
Here is the outside and inside of one on the Graceful Lady Site –
Another one from Anna Allen’s Graceful Lady site –
A close-up for Corsets and Crinolines
The Musee McCord Museum has this photo which shows what looks like a quilted petti underneith.
This is a blog post from the FIDM Museum with a great, colorful petti
If I Had My Own Blue Box: 
I’m looking forward to seeing this all finished up… the fabric looks delightfully cozy in color. I think you’d feel warmer just wearing the color!
Old Sturbridge Village has a very nice cotton quilted petticoat in their collection, which is in their online collection viewer, though the site doesn’t seem to be working right now. This should be the correct address: http://www.osv.org/explore_learn/collection_viewer.php?N=26.35.31
I reproduced it pretty closely for a independent study project, and even got to handle the original while I was interning at the Village over the summer. It’s amazing how pretty it (and the repro) look with just a vertically striped print, and simple horizontal rows of quilting. And very cozy too – I expect I’ll be wearing mine around the house in January to fend off the Massachusetts winter.
Incidentally, it’s encouraging to me that living in New Mexico, you’re finding that it’s actually chilly enough that you want a quilted petticoat! I’ll most likely be moving to Las Cruces this coming summer for grad school, and I’m a little leery about the weather!
Happy petticoat-making! I hope you’ll post pictures. 🙂
I am so glad you linked the OSV petti. I have it on my FB page, but couldn’t seem to get the link to work earlier to move here. Any chance I can get you to share your reproduction petti with us? Are there any observations you can share?
About NM – Yes, the nights do get chilly enough for me to be cold. But, keep in mind I have a narrow range of temperature comfortablity. When we are driving between Alamogordo and either Cruces or El Paso, the temperature is colder then in town. The last trip it dropped to freezing on the highway while still being in the 40s in town. The car still gets into the 70s during the day because of the sun, while the outside temps are in the 60s. At night it can get into the 30s and 40s. The range is significant making layer a must. We will probably be gone by the time you get here. Be sure to buy an extra tube of neosporin for your nose which may do the dry, bleeding thing mine does. Have extra sunglasses on hand. Don’t leave them in the car though. They will burn you. Drink lots and lots of water. But, plan to buy it. Which brings me to the recycling shock… it is very, very minimal here. You will need to buy your own bins and find a drop off place. To cool down, find a place called Cloudcroft on the map. That older town and Riudoso are cooler then the main towns. Before leaving Cruces for El Paso or Alamogordo, visit the bathroom. There won’t be one for a long stretch. Put extra sunscreen on for in the car. I have awful sunspots on my face and arms from that. A must see in Cruces is the Farm and Ranch Museum. Okay, enough NM blabbering.