These are the directions for making bishop style undersleeves from the spring workshop.
What type of under sleeves do you want/need?
Under an open pagoda sleeve?
Under a modified pagoda sleeve?
Under an open coat sleeve?
How full do you want your under sleeves? Very full? Moderately full? Lightly full?
How much poof do you want your sleeves to have?
Original moderately full sleeves tend to be from 8” to just over 9” across the top or 16” to 18” around. Fuller sleeves fall up to 30” around for very fine nets. I generally find one half of the width of 36” full bodied sheer or semi sheer fabric makes a moderately full under-sleeve. You can make a fuller sleeve of fine sheer cotton but they should not be as wide as those of net. If you add tucks, ruching or other embellishments, you can add to the visual fullness of the sleeve.
In determining the length of the under-sleeve consider the length of your arm as well as the length of your dress sleeve. Original sleeves are as short as 12” and as long as 22”. The longer sleeves have layers of decoration that fall below the wrist. For a bishop under-sleeve, measure from your wrist to two inches above your elbow. Forearm length _________ Add 1” for gathering at bottom and top. If you want more poof to your sleeve add an inch to three inches. Sleeve fabric length __________.
The cuffs of your bishop style under sleeve will need to fit comfortable around your wrist. Measure your wrist _________ add 1 1/2” for closure and comfort ________. Original sleeves show cuffs an inch to about two inches wide. How wide do you want your cuffs? ________ Multiply by 2 and add 1/2” _________.
Do you want the top edge to be gathered to fit your arm or do you want it loose to baste or pin in your dress sleeve? If you want a gathered edge, measure around your arm about an inch above your elbow. _______ Add 1 ½” for comfort and closure. ________ If you want your sleeve to be loose, use the width of your sleeve for the top.
Cut two rectangles of the lawn according to the measurements you have for the width and length of you sleeves. Place a pin along the edge that will be the wrist. Gather along the wrist end to the measurement of your wrist.
Cut two cuff pieces according to the cuff measurements above. Fold each in half lengthwise and press. Fold ¼” seam allowances in and press on all sides.
Cut two upper bindings 2” by the measure for your upper arm or the width of your sleeve. Fold edges in ½” and press. Fold in half and press with raw edges inside.
If you are gathering the top, gather the top edge of the sleeve to the width of the binding.
Sew the length of the sleeve from the top to 2-4” from the bottom. (Enough to comfortably get your hand through) Narrowly turn the remaining raw edge under and hem.
Pin or baste the cuff onto the wrist gathering. Attach the cuff.
Attach the binding at the top. Turn the raw ends under as you do.
Attach a tiny hook and thread loop or button to your cuff for closure.
Examples:
If I Had My Own Blue Box: 
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