If I Had My Own Blue Box:

This was originally printed in full in The Citizen’s Companion.

Modern, 21^st century fashion doesn’t give us many opportunities to wear fun hats very often. That makes wearing bonnets and hats in from the 19^th century much more fun. Most of us enjoy, some do stress, looking for bonnets or hats. The goal each time? Finding an authentic bonnet or hat that fit within the person’s budget, needs and skills.

There really is a wide range of options for headwear out there to fit just about everyone’s needs. Here is a general outline of millinery options to match with your time, skills and budget.

Custom Made Bonnets

One route is to have a custom made bonnet designed for you. This method requires no sewing skill from you at all. Your level of creativity is flexible as is your own research level. The milliner can choose with you the right shape for the years or seasons of your portrayal while considering the shape of your face

She or he can then select the fabrics, ribbons, trims, and other embellishments that will best compliment your attire in a period method. This route can be one of the more costly depending on the type of bonnet selected, the amount of work and the materials used. Custom buckram/silk or straw bonnets start around $ 120 to $180 and go up; hoods range from $50 to 170 depending on materials and design. A custom bonnet, hat or hood could take weeks or even months to complete based on your milliner’s schedule. Plan accordingly.

The milliner you choose for your custom bonnet should be knowledgeable of period construction, shapes, fashion, and socio-economic influences on an impression. Talk or meet with her/him before hand; ask about their research and to see examples of their work. Be sure to discuss the impression or scenario you need the bonnet for, including the background of your character, the situation and what you will wear.

Millinery Off the Rack or Via the Internet

Buying a bonnet, hat or hood off the rack of via the internet has many advantages. The purchase is instant with no wait for construction of embellishment. If shopping in person, you can try the piece on to see how the shape suits you and your dress. You can also inspect the construction, method of attaching trim, etc. – Were the ribbons sewn on with cotton or silk thread? Was the straw plait sewn with cotton or linen thread not nylon? Are the flowers paper, silk, dried, fabric or plastic? Are the flowers pinned or sewn on rather than glued? How is the shape of the cheek tabs? Are there functional ties as well as decorative? If the milliner is present you can also ask questions – Was this piece based on an original, a photo, a fashion description? What kind of buckram was used? Is the milliner willing to make alterations/changes for you?

This route doesn’t require you to know how to sew or construct a bonnet. I do suggest you have a general knowledge of period shapes and materials. Take some time before shopping to look at original piece that fit your impression taking note of the shape and material. Bring some of your favorites with you. Do be aware of impulse purchases.  You may end up with a bonnet you love that doesn’t go with your wardrobe or impression. Off the rack bonnets range from $90 to $200; straw bonnets$100 to $180; hoods $50 to $120; hats $70 to $150; sunbonnets $30 to $80.

We now move to options that require some sewing skills as well as knowledge of period millinery.

Finishing a purchased base

You can purchase a buckram or straw bonnet base or straw hat to finish and embellish on your own. This requires basic to moderate sewing skills. You start with a base that is accurate in shape, materials and construction. For a buckram bonnet you will need to cover the base with your desired fabric. Some milliners will provide directions for this. For buckram and straw bonnets you will need to line the interior as desired, add interior ruching or a cap, a curtain, functional ties, decorative ribbons, and embellishments. (See the section on making your own bonnet for material considerations.) A buckram base costs between $30 to $60; Straw bonnet bases $40 to $80; hats $35 to $60. Some milliners offer bases which are partly finished including the lining and cap.

Taking a class

One of the most enjoyable routes is to take a bonnet making class. Knowledgeable instructors are available to teach sessions on making just about every piece of headwear – buckram bonnets, straw bonnets, quilted hoods, corded bonnets, slat straw bonnets and hoods. You can find a class in a travelable distance. You can also arrange for an instructor to come to you to do a session for your local civilians. Depending on the type of headwear, sessions vary from an afternoon to a weekend or several consecutive evenings. Costs also vary according to the project, what materials are supplied, and where the instructor is coming from. Buckram and straw bonnet classes run $75 to $150; hoods and sunbonnets $50 to $110.

Most projects require basic to intermediate sewing skills. The great advantages to taking a class to make your bonnet or hood is the wealth of knowledge that comes with your instructor as well as the hands-on guidance through each step. An additional advantage is the camaraderie that develops with other participants during the class.

Making your own bonnet

If you are comfortable with your sewing skills, making your bonnet on your own is an option. You can choose to purchase a kit, purchase a pattern or follow period directions. Before beginning your bonnet or hood, even before making any purchases you must research. You will need to read up on period construction, materials and fashion. I recommend looking at original examples.

 Buckram bonnet kits cost $25-$45; straw bonnet kits $20-$35; buckram bonnet patterns $15-$20; hood patterns $10-$20; sunbonnet patterns $8-$16 . There really isn’t a pattern for a straw bonnet because they were originally sewn row by row in the round. There are some directions available though. (contact the author for these.)

Each type of headwear requires different materials. This greatly varies the total cost of the bonnet or hood chosen. For a buckram bonnet you will need buckram, milliners wire, cotton for under lining the silk, cotton or silk for lining the inside, silk or wool to cover the bonnet and make the curtain, 1”ribbon for functional ties, 2-3 yards of wide silk ribbon for decorative ties, white cotton or silk net or sheer for interior ruching/cap and additional ribbon, flowers, feathers, etc. for trim. For a straw bonnet you will need 17 yards of ½” wide straw plait (more yardage is needed for narrower plait), milliner wire, watered down glue for sizing/stiffening, cotton or silk to line the inside, net cotton or silk for ruching, 3 yards of 4” to 6” wide ribbon or ½ yard silk for decorative ribbon and the curtain, 1 yard of 1” ribbon for functional ties and additional ribbon, flowers, feathers, etc. for trim. For a quilted hood you will need 1 to 2 yards of wool or silk depending on the fabric design and the type of hood, 1 yard of lining silk or cotton, cotton or wool batting, 1 yard of 1” ribbon and 1-2 yards of decorative ribbons. You may also want a fur trimming. For a sun bonnet you will need about a yard of cotton, silk or wool, ½ yard of corresponding lining fabric, cardboard for slats or cords for cording, and ribbon or fabric for ties.

Closing

            As you can see, there are many millinery options to choose from. If you have time through the off season and want to network, find a class. It is a great way to make new friends. If you think you are likely to get snowed in over the winter or would enjoy some quiet evenings after the kids have gone to sleep, pick up the materials to make your own bonnet to have on hand when the opportunity arises. If you haven’t a moment to spare, tuck away some pictures of bonnets you enjoy so you can order or pick out the right bonnet for you. Choose the option that best fits your needs while striving for the most accurate piece of headwear.