Measuring (the quick version)

This is a quick and rough version of measuring for my Civil War Era hats. I have this really cute version of understanding how CW era hats sit and how to measure for mine. But, that is going to take a couple days of computer work. So, for now, here is this version with quick, hair roughly tied up, taken in the bathroom photos of me. 

Step one: Push what you know about modern hat sizes and fit out of your mind. Nineteenth century hats are not worn how modern hats are worn.

Measuring 

Measure your head at the hairline. This is close to where most of your hats for this era will be worn. Measure here, parallel to the ground, or at least fairly parallel to the ground. 

Here is my head with the tape showing where to measure. This is where I wear most CW era hats. This is the circumference of my head. My measurement is 21 1/2″. (Note: this is a full inch smaller than the modern measurement take lower.)  

When selecting a CW era fashionable hat, subtract an inch from your head measurement. A 19 1/2″ to 20″ low brim or Mousquetaire hat fits me.
Another thing to know about your head is whether it is more round or more oval. This is because some of my blocks are more oval or more round. If you know this, I can advise you if this is a factor. Here is the top of my head. I have an average oval head. Very round hats dont work for me without adding to the lining. 

Fit

The majority of Civil War Era fashionable hats are worn high on the head. This is roughly at the hairline for most people. There are some that are worn higher and some that are worn lowered. Here is a sampling of photos from my “ooo, I need to make that folder” in my tablet. Notice how high each sits and that some of them sit tilted back (admittedly this may be for photographing purposes) which may be earlier. 

Here is an assortment of illustrations to compare: 


Here is a look at how I would place a variety of styles on my head. Please note, this evening I do not have a hat that is my size on hand. I just want to get this posted due to the number of questions and comments regarding fit and measuring. 

This is a low brim hat. It sits at my hairline. This one is an inch too large for me. 

This is the Mousquetaire style with the higher crown and narrower brim. This sits at my hairline as well. Illustrations and photos suggest this style sits at or below the hairline in the era. 

This is the brimless toque style. Photos suggest this should sit lower on the head than other fashionable styles. For this style, select a hat the same as the measure of your head or a little larger if you want to bind the crown edge.   (so tempting.) 

Published in: on April 3, 2018 at 10:47 pm  Comments (5)  

I am going to need more black straw 

I’ve been enjoying working with black straw this spring break. Okay, maybe my eyes have been getting a bit tired. I’ve made a chapeau cloche, a brimless toque, a Mousquetaire finished in purple velvet, and a Mousquetaire that will be finished in green. 

I have narrow black set aside for two doll bonnets (already claimed) Beyond that, I am going to need to order more black straw to make the other black straw pieces I have in my visual project list. (Aka my tablet’s photo files, which shamefully does not have source citations.) 

Show me your favorite black straw hat or bonnet…. 

Published in: on April 3, 2018 at 7:44 pm  Comments (1)  

Brimless Hat in Black

This fashionable brimless hat has a stylish V dip in the front. 


This hat is 21.5″ circumference inside and 3″ tall. Is will fit an average size head. 

It is really tempting to decorate this hat with the zigzag ribbon like the photo below. 


Measuring: Measure at your hairline around parallel to the ground. Most of my CW era fashion hats need to be an inch to an inch and a half less that what you measure. The Mousquetaire and this brimless are exceptions. You will want these to fit lower, closer to the number you measure. 

Published in: on April 3, 2018 at 12:11 pm  Leave a Comment  

Chapeau Cloche in Black 

This is a larger size hat for the Civil War Era. 


This hat has a 21.75″ crown and a brim the measures 12.5″ front to back, 12″ side to side. The brim dips down, dome like, shading the eyes just a bit. I’ve included some photos of me wearing it because is wears far better than it photographs. 

Measuring: Measure at your hairline around parallel to the ground. Most of my CW era fashion hats need to be an inch to an inch and a half less that what you measure. The Mousquetaire and this brimless are exceptions. You will want these to fit lower, closer to the number you measure

Published in: on April 3, 2018 at 12:04 pm  Comments (4)